Return to Main Menu                Return to The Land Menu                                

THE FLORA OF LANGCLIFFE PARISH

The flora of Langcliffe is special because of the uncommon and rare  plants that grow on limestone grassland, pavement and cliffs. 

In 1660 the great botanist John Ray (1627-1706) visits Craven and in 1668 and 1671 he visits Settle and area.  We don't know whether he actually visits Langcliffe itself, but one of the plants he discovers whilst in the area in 1668 is the Twisted Whitlow-grass, a tiny white Crucifer with white flowers resembling Shepherd's Purse and with oval, twisted seed pods.  In 1671 he also finds the Spring Sandwort 'on the mountains about Settle'.

One third of a millennium later (1998) another famous botanist visits the parish.  He too is pleased to find the Twisted Whitlow-grass.  This is David Bellamy who has come to visit the  limestone pavement nature reserve Winskill Stones, newly bought by the charity Plantlife.  It enables him to point out concerns about genetic modification of crops and tests currently being organised by the government and the fact that members of the Crucifer family (Cabbage family) can easily hybridise, so that genes introduced into the crop plant Oil-seed Rape can spread into wild plants such as the Twisted Whitlow-grass.

At the same time a survey of all the wild flowers and ferns in Langcliffe Parish is being undertaken.  Judith Allinson writes:

The Langcliffe Millennium Project has been the incentive for myself and friends from Craven Conservation Group to carry out a botanical survey of Langcliffe Parish, on a 1 km square basis over the past year and a half.  I had already been surveying the area around Settle on a tetrad basis (2km square) for about 6 years for Phyl Abbott's Survey of Vice-County 64 of Yorkshire, (which stretches from Leeds to Burton in Lonsdale).  Data from her survey is being used in the Botanical Society of the British Isles (BSBI) Atlas (on a 10km square basis) which is being produced to mark the year 2000. 

Time has not allowed me to complete every single km square in detail.  Just last month (March 2000) I discovered the delightful Alternate-leaved Golden-saxifrage, with its lobed kidney shaped leaves and tiny yellow green flowers, growing, tucked away from sheep in some limestone pavement in one of the highest areas of the parish, 480m above sea level.  However here is a summary of the results, which I feel  includes perhaps 90% of the plants to be found in Langcliffe Parish. 360 species of flowering plant and fern have been recorded in Langcliffe Parish so far.  (The total number of species in Britain is between 1800 and 2000, depending on how many aliens and species of Dandelion one includes). 

There are 7 Nationally Scarce Plants and 1 very rare plant (A Red Data Book species).  The Red Data Book plant is special type of Lady's Mantle, Alchemilla glaucescens.  These 8 rare plants all grow on limestone grassland or screes or cliffs.  Nationally Scarce Plants as described in the JNCC book (1994)  'Scarce Plants in Britain' are plants which occur in Britain in  16 - 100 hectads (10 km squares). 

52 of the 360 species are recorded in the 'Collins Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers' by McClintock and Fitter (1956) as being in the one star (only locally common) or two star (nationally scarce) categories. 14 are in  the latter category. 

Maps from the old BSBI Atlas (1976) will be available at the Langcliffe exhibition to show the distribution nationally of some of these rarer plants, and to show how important the Langcliffe area is for their survival. 

Langcliffe Parish covers about 11 km² but includes parts of 19 km squares.   The data was used to plot the distribution of species in 16 of these squares, and some of the distribution maps will be shown at the Langcliffe Millennium exhibition.  

Railways and riversides are important habitats in a parish where there is such extensive sheep grazing and so little woodland.  12 plants were found on the railway verges and nowhere else, and a good number of other interesting plants were also found on the railway verges.  The railway verges are under-recorded due to access restrictions.  The riverside also supports ungrazed vegetation, as does the water channel from The Locks down through Langcliffe Place Mill  to Watershed Mill.

Limestone - a basic rock.

Before talking about the flowers and ferns of Langcliffe Parish in detail, and their habitats, we shall, since the bed rock for the major part of the parish is limestone, have a few words about Limestone and how it affects the diversity of plants.

Certain plants grow well in soil that has a lot of lime.  They are known as calcicoles and include Thyme, Salad Burnet and Fairy Flax.  Other plants grow best where there is a shortage of lime.  They are known as calcifuges and include Heather, Mat-grass and Bilberry. 

Why do plants grow better if lime is added to the soil?  

Calcium frees other nutrient metal ions from the soil and makes them available for the plants.  Plants need potassium and magnesium to grow.  But these metal ions have positive charges and they are locked onto clay particles in the soil which have negative charges.  If lime is added, the calcium ions then stick to the  clay particles, and the metal ions, which the plants need, are released. 

Why do some plants not grow well if there is too much lime?

The mechanisms that certain plants have for growing in acid conditions backfire when lime is added.  If the soil is very, very acid, then aluminium and iron compounds will dissolve.  Aluminium ions are toxic to plants. (That is why acid rain is a problem).  Just a few plants have methods of preventing the toxic aluminium from entering.  These same methods also prevent iron from entering.  If lime is added then iron as well as aluminium become more insoluble.  So the plant cannot get enough iron.

Habitats

The variety of plants in Langcliffe Parish is due to the variety of habitats.  If you find a certain type of habitat then you can look out for the plants that belong there.

Rough acid pasture, on glacial drift.

The most extensive example of this habitat is the land above (south of) the old road-footpath to Malham Tarn, above Jubilee and Victoria caves, leading round to the land above and south of Capon Hall.  You can see it in the distance to the south in autumn from the Henside Road because the vegetation looks whitish due to the dead leaves of Purple Moor Grass and Mat Grass.  This land is dominated by Common Bent-grass, in places with Mat-grass, Purple Moor-grass and Heath Rush and the wetter areas have Rushes.  This is species poor vegetation.  Without grazing it would support Birch scrub, and in the less acid places, Alder, Willow, Rowan and Hawthorn.  But the area is remarkable for being absolutely treeless.  Different management could produce Heather and Bilberry, as happens 2km to the north; outside the parish, on the slopes of Fountains Fell.  Bilberry and Heather, especially, are very rare in the parish.

Some of the fields have been drained and reseeded (SD 860 666).  The soil is not excessively acid.

Rushy flushes

Where there are springs and wet areas, and this often happens on slopes, the flow of water brings constant supply of nutrients and more basic conditions.  Four rushes which all grow to half a meter in height can grow in the flushes: Soft Rush, Conglomerate Rush, Hard Rush and Sharp-Flowered Rush. Sharp-flowered Rush grows in slightly more base rich soils and is more likely to have interesting fen species growing with it such as:  Marsh Valerian and Ragged Robin, Marsh Violet, Marsh Bedstraw, Marsh Arrowgrass, Lesser Spearwort, Marsh Willowherb and Quaking grass.  Marsh Speedwell, a relative rarity, was found in only one place, in the dewpond at SD 830648.  If the flush is more acid one may find the happily distinctive Star Sedge, with its star shaped inflorescences arid upright narrow shiny mid-to-yellow-green leaves. 

Calcareous flushes

Here clear water is emerging out of limestone gravel or bedrock. The vegetation is short.  There is very little soil and humus because the water carries it away. There are yellow green calcareous flush mosses  and lime from the water can be deposited on them making them brittle.

This is the habitat where one should find Bird's-eye Primrose and Butterwort, but sadly Bird's-eye Primrose does not occur in Langcliffe Parish, and only one plant of Butterwort was recorded. 

Two of the better flush areas at SD 849 674 and SD 865 665, both in the north east of the parish, both on footpaths and both occurring in the limited area where the geological section shows the Silurian rocks  at the surface. 

One of the best calcareous flushes occurs on the road halfway up Langcliffe Brow. (SD 825 652)  The Tall-stalked Yellow-sedge and Broad Blysmus grow here. 

Railway

The railway increases our species score by 12 plants, and there are several other plants for which the railway banks provide their main habitat.  The railway is important for species diversity for three reasons.

1. In some cases plants have come in with the railway, and the only places where they grow in Craven are along the railways.  The Least Toadflax grows at the railway crossing at the kiln.  It is a tiny plant with pretty purple flowers.  Flattened Meadow-grass also has been found near here.

The much bigger and more showy Yellow Toadflax grows at the railway bridge (SD 822 660) opposite John Roberts Langcliffe Paper Mill.  Bladder Campion makes a good show here too.  On the railway bank to the south west of this bridge and on the lane next to it grows Upright Brome. 

2. The line provides an ungrazed habitat.  The showy blue Field Scabious grows on some of the banks as well as the more common Devil's-bit Scabious. The blue Meadow Crane's-bill and magenta Knapweed add to the colour.   In 2000 Railtrack cut a good number of trees down.  This on the whole will benefit the ground vegetation, since the leaves cause too much shade and add too many nutrients to the soil for some of the more interesting plants to grow. 

3. The verges are not covered by thick agriculturally improved soil.  The substratum is either bedrock, where soil is removed, or else limestone ballast, hence plants which grow slowly are able to grow here.  They are not out competed by vigorous plants such as Rye-grass.  At one place Kidney Vetch, Carline Thistle and Bee Orchid have been found. 

The Hoffmann Kiln and the Quarry and cliffs.

This also provides an ungrazed habitat on limestone rocks and scree.  The kiln itself is home to five different species of Hawkweeds, including the rare species Hieracium praealtum which is actually mostly found by railways.  Wild Strawberries and Autumn Gentians grow on the kiln.  If the National Park decides to "Do up" the kiln it is important to have regard for these plants.  The periodic cutting back of re-growing ash and birch saplings on the kiln by the Yorkshire Dales Conservation Volunteers is welcomed since the roots damage the kiln and the branches shade the ground vegetation.

Common Weeds

Occasionally new buildings are built and plants come in on the builders' soil.  This was the case at Sedgewick View (SD 820 654).  The plants may not have lasted many years but I recorded the plants that were there then.

Gardens provide open ground, which is a good place for weeds.  Common Chickweed, Groundsel, Annual Meadow-grass, Shepherd's Purse, Thale-cress, and Hairy Bitter-cress, are all common weeds.  Purple Fumitory is pretty.  The Ivy-leaved Toadflax, with its beautiful purple flowers was actually introduced to this country as a garden plant and has spread since.  It grows on several walls and a beautiful spread can be seen at The Locks. 

Introduced weeds

At the John Roberts Langcliffe Paper Mill, Short-fruited Willowherb (Epilobium obscurum) grows.  This is the only place in the survey it was found. 

The tarmac pavements of the main road B6479 support weeds.  They are herbicided in summer by the Council.  The soil left in cracks after the plants have died is available for new weeds to colonize.  Sticky Groundsel, Barren Brome-grass, Soft Brome-grass and Soft Sow-thistle grow here and one year a single plant of Canary-grass, probably from bird seed, was found.

Relict vegetables

Some plants associated with houses, growing on verges (ungrazed) near houses, are not originally weeds, but would originally have been planted as vegetables.  There is Good-King-Henry on the road verge opposite Capon Hall. (approx SD 866 667)  There is lots and lots of Ground Elder and Comfrey on the Bank above Willow Wood (SD 822 658).  Sweet Cicily, as found on the roadside near Cowside Farm, can be used to flavour stews.  Feverfew which grows on the bank below Ribble Bank, and beside the church may just be a recent garden escape, but it may also have been used for medicinal properties in the past.  The church yard has plenty of Bistort, with its beautiful pale pink poker like flower heads.  Whilst this is used as an old hay meadow indicator species by English Nature, its survival may have been encouraged by the fact it was used as 'Dock pudding' in the olden days.  The low growing plant Silverweed with its brilliant yellow flowers and silvery undersurface to its leaves, which grows at the road side at the foot of Langcliffe Brow, most likely arrived by itself, but its roots have been used as vegetables in the past. 

The riverbank 

The shingle supports Creeping Yellow-cress.  This is a striking plant, when in flower, which grows on riverbanks.  On the ungrazed verge of the river at the field above the lower paper mill SD 818 648 there is Field Garlic, an uncommon plant.  This also grows high up above Langcliffe on the cliffs at SD 837 656, the south end of Winskill Stones Reserve.

Woodland

Langcliffe does not have any obvious ancient woodland, and it only has a very small amount of 'modern woodland'.  Only about 2% of the parish is wooded, including the railway line. This percentage increase slightly if  garden trees are included.  If a line is drawn north south along the high ground above Clay Pits Plantation then the western third of the parish (the lower land) is 6% woodland and the eastern two thirds has virtually no woodland or trees at all, apart from two conifer plantations occupying 2.5ha, and the shelter belts and plantings at Cowside Farm.  The woodland in the west takes the form of Sycamore plantations planted in the last century or earlier, much of it on limestone pavement, with some Larch and Beech.  A second type of woodland is formed by colonisation of part of Langcliffe Quarry by Ash and Sycamore and colonisation of the railway line and river bank.  All these often have a ground flora dominated by Dog's Mercury.  The plantations have not been fully surveyed by the author, but in the areas surveyed ancient woodland indicators such as Wood Sanicle, Woodruff, and Herb Paris have not been found.  The copse on pavement behind Lower Winskill Farm has Goldilocks and Moschatel

It is of intriguing interest that so far I have no record of the woodland plant Bracken anywhere in Langcliffe Parish.  This fern is a great problem in some parts of the Yorkshire Dales.

Bluebells and Primroses grow on the high steep slopes of the field to the south west of Langcliffe Quarry, below the scattered beech trees.  Once  walled against stock, this is now open to sheep.

Limestone Pavement

Just over 50% of Britain's Limestone pavement occurs in North Yorkshire. It is fun looking down the grykes to see what plants can be found away from grazing animals. White Wood Sorrel, green Dog's Mercury, white Ramsons, Elderberry and pink Herb Robert can often be found. Ferns such as Wall Rue, Brittle Bladder-fern, Hart's-tongue, Maidenhair Spleenwort, and Green Spleenwort are quite frequent.  The Scaly Male-fern and the Hard Shield-fern are rare.

Limestone grassland on steep slopes in enclosed areas

A glance at the profile of Langcliffe Parish shows that the steepest slopes occur where the land rises from 200m to 300m above sea level in about 500m horizontal distance.  The ridge runs north south down the parish, above the river (the upper part of the U in a glacial U shaped valley) and the slopes are south west facing.  It is some of these slopes that have the most species rich grassland, and have a large number of the 47 'Hay Meadow Indicator Species' that are used by English Nature when assessing the importance of Yorkshire Dales Grassland. Some of the indicator species present are: 

Betony, Devil's-bit Scabious, Meadow Oat-grass, Downy Oat-grass, Pignut, Quaking Grass, Hoary Plantain, Lady's Bedstraw, Cat's-ear, Bird'sfoot Trefoil, Bugle, Selfheal, Field Woodrush, various Lady's Mantles, Cowslip, Carnation Sedge, Glaucous Sedge and Spring Sedge.

The steep slopes have more 'hay meadow species' and are more diverse than some of the limestone grassland higher up in the parish.  Being the upper parts of fields that in the past would have been used as meadow, they would have not been grazed in May and June, giving herbs a chance to grow.  They are too steep to spread slurry or fertilizer on nowadays.  One wonders if these slopes were once wooded. 

The slopes lower down, that sometimes are meadowed, on the footpath from the village to the Railway Bridge opposite John Roberts Mill, are much more species poor.  They do have some Yellow Rattle though, and can look cheerful with the Yellow Rattle, Pignut and Buttercups.  The other fields near the village have been reseeded in the past and are species poor.

Upland limestone grassland

Blue Moor-grass is a specialty of our area and does not grow in the south of England. It is easily recognisable in spring by its blue flowers, its broad leaves compared with the needle-like leaves of Sheep's-fescue, and the fact that it is the only grass in flower in April. It grows in abundance on cliffs and where limestone rocks break through the surface of the soil. Occasionally it is accompanied by the delicate white Limestone Bedstraw.

It is on the upland limestone grassland and screes that Langcliffe's rareties grow, in very small quantities.  Plants such as: Mountain Everlasting, Wall Whitlow-grass, Spring Sandwort, Spring Cinquefoil, Twisted Whitlow-grass, Limestone Fern and Rigid Buckler-fern.  These plants have all taken a lot of time to find.

But a walk in the hills in the right time of year, or a rest on a limestone bank not far from the road should reveal some of our lovely limestone plants: In April: white Barren Strawberry, brown Field Woodrush, Blue Moor-grass and white Spring Whitlow-grass. In May: yellow Cowslips and  Early-purple Orchids. In summer: yellow Tormentil, delicate five petalled Fairy Flax, yellow Mountain Pansies, sweet smelling pink Thyme, cucumber smelling Salad Burnet, mauve Small Scabious and  blue Harebells.  Put on your walking boots, get out your flower books and enjoy them. Please leave the flowers there  for others to enjoy, and for the flowers  to fruit and shed seeds.

Acknowledgements

I am grateful to all the people who have helped:

To members of Craven Conservation Group who accompanied me on many recording walks in May and June 1999; To Plantlife who commissioned me to survey their nature reserve at Winskill Stones in detail; To Thomas Lord who encouraged me to look at some of his land at Lower Winskill in detail; To other landowners who gave me permission to access their land.   

Judith Allinson

Control+ Home to return to top of page